Saturday, 14 May 2011

Exercise 30

What: The main brief of this exercise was to take similar shots at both normal and high sensitivity
Where: In the house
When: Just before noon
How: The exercise asked for 12 or more photographs of the same subject where the sensitivity of the camera normally known as the ISO was raised after each photograph. I started at ISO 100 and worked my way up.

Previous experience working with camera sensitivity speed meant that I was at least mildly familiar with the use of ISO and how to adjust it within the camera. I knew that changing the ISO would make the camera sensor more sensitive to the amount of light and that doubling the ISO for example for 100 to 200 would double the sensitivity. I also know that it can make it easier or more difficult to take a photograph by adjusting the ISO.
I know what by increasing the sensitivity that there would be a trade off for the sensor and that it would make the image “noisier” and would introduce a film like grain into the image.

In the end I photographed Louis as he sat to my course notes as they were in a sun beam, I knew that this would allow me to view the dark and light areas of the image to examine it for noise and grain.

I sat and had shot the images adjusting the camera sensitivity by one step each time I took a photograph; I kept the camera at f/4.8 and worked my way up to the highest sensitivity which is H1.0 on a Nikon D80.

D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/10 sec, ISO 100, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens

DSC_0059

D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/15 sec, ISO 125, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens

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D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/20 sec, ISO 160, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens

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D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/30 sec, ISO 200, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens

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D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/45 sec, ISO 250, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens

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D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/45 sec, ISO 320, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens


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D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/60 sec, ISO 400, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens

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D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/90 sec, ISO 500, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens

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D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/125 sec, ISO 640, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens

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D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/125 sec, ISO 800, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens

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D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/180 sec, ISO 1000, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens

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D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/180 sec, ISO 1250, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens

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D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/250 sec, ISO 1600, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens

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D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/350 sec, ISO 2000, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens

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D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/250 sec, ISO 2500, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens

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D80,Aperture f/4.8 , Shutter Speed 1/350 sec, ISO 3200, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70 lens

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Straight away I noted that the shutter speed increased as the camera sensitivity was increased although not always at the same step as the ISO did not increase 100-200-400-800 but rather in part steps 100-125-160, etc. I knew that the highest ISO will have a lot of noise and grain.

I have learned that there is a trade off between noise and sensitivity. This is another tool to use when photographing a subject as in some cases it may be necessary to increase the sensitivity knowing that noise will appear but that the image will not be ruined by the noise being present.

Personally I am not a great fan of noise and that in some cases it may be better to support the camera with a tripod rather than increased the sensitivity of the camera to capture an image. However I have also learned that noise is inevitable with increased sensitivity and sometimes the introduction of grain may help the overall composition, a la Film Noir.

Assignment 3 - Reshoots

After a telephone discussion with the tutor I have been looking at reshooting several of the images again as he said that the images were too flat or that although the satisifed the basic brief the images were boring and lacked interest.

I have almost completed the reshoots and only have one more image to complete.

Saturday, 7 May 2011

Exercise 29

What: The main brief of this exercise was to experiment with measuring exposure. Where: Various locations
When: Various times of the day in varying lighting conditions
How: First of all the exercise asked for between four and six photographs which were deliberately lighter or darker than average and say why the photographs were chosen.

The second part of the exercise was to take five or six different photographs of any subject by for each photograph make five exposures arranged around what is the best exposure. The first should be one stop darker, the second half a stop darker, the third the average exposure, the fourth one stop lighter and the fifth one stop lighter.

I expected at the start of this exercise that I would find one or two of the exposures to be the preferred exposure of the set. One of the first things I had to do was set my camera up so that I could adjust the exposure by one half stop and one full stop at a simple movement, as the camera had been set up to bracket and one third of a stop.

Deliberately Lighter or Darker

While I was setting up a bracketed shoot I started to examine the light on this glass globe. I really wanted to capture the way that the light was just passing through it and how bright the colours were within the globe; I deliberately made this photograph lighter by making it two stops lighter than the measured exposure.

D80,Aperture f/8, Shutter Speed 1/750 sec, ISO 1250, 105mm (35mm equivalent 157mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Tripod Mounted, 105mm lens, light from the left and of the camera.

Glass globe two stops over


As I was looking around for objects to photograph I came across this smashed egg. It was from a pigeon nest which had been raided by a magpie and the egg smashed for food. I just liked the gentle shape of the egg and the colour of it as it had been sitting there for a few days and was being bleached by the sun. I set the exposure to be one half of a stop lighter than the measured exposure

D80,Aperture f/16, Shutter Speed 1/350 sec, ISO 320, 105mm (35mm equivalent 157mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Tripod Mounted, 105mm lens, Light high in the sky and almost directly above the camera.

shell half a stop over

It was while looking up at the roof that I started to think about the light and the colour of the lampshade. I then deliberately set the camera to be one stop lighter as I did not want the roof to be too washed out and insolate the lamp completely.

D80,Aperture f/4, Shutter Speed 1/250 sec, ISO 800, 105mm (35mm equivalent 157mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 105mm lens.

Lamp one stop over

I wanted to take at least one darker exposure and settled on trying to photograph Louis where I could get one image of him where the darker than measured exposure would be suitable and would be what I wanted. In this case I really wanted to get his dark colour but at the same time capture the texture of his fur as well being able to define him against a background where he would not merge into a black blob.

D80,Aperture f/10, Shutter Speed 1/20 sec, ISO 1000, 70mm (35mm equivalent 105mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Tripod Mounted, 18-70mm lens, Light from the right of the camera.


Louis one stop under

While I was out in Edinburgh I stopped and took this image of St, Giles. I wanted to capture the sky as well as the building so I deliberately went for one stop darker than the measured exposure.

D80,Aperture f/10, Shutter Speed 1/800 sec, ISO 500, 27mm (35mm equivalent 40mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Daylight White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70mm lens.

St Giles one stop under


Bracketing.

In each of the following set of images, they have been arranged with the one stop darker on the far left and then arranged in the set leading to the one stop lighter at the far right, with the average measured exposure in the middle


Smokey

I wanted to see what would happen to a mid grey when it was bracketed. In this case I used Smokey who is a mid value of grey (around 6 or 7 on the grey scale) I was surpised to find that I liked the one half stop lighter image as it defined his head better against the deep black and the white was not too blown out.

Smokey bracketed

Still Life

I arranged this collection of objects outside as I wanted to see what would happen to the shiny metal object against the white egg and the sisal cat toy. I also wanted to see what would happen to the secondary colour of green when it was bracketed.

Still life bracketed

In the end I like the one half stop darker exposure as none of the objects neither are too dark nor are the whites blown out and over defined.

Sword Hilt

Here I placed the sword hilt in the direct line of sunlight and measured against the upper part of the hilt. After examining the final selection I prefer the measured exposure as it balances out the dark and light elements together.

Sword Hilt bracket

Black Bag

Again I placed this roll of black bags into direct sunlight and shot the bracket selection of images. I really wanted to see what a dark object would behave like in direct sunlight and then bracketed, as I expected it to be poorly defined up into the one half stop lighter exposure. I was really surprised to see how quickly the bags lost their total black definition and you could see the separate parts of the roll, however the only exposure that I like is the one stop darker exposure as I feel that it is the definitive exposure for this object.

Black Bag bracketed

Yellow and Red

As I was finishing up I looked over at this cable and decided that I wanted to see what happens to the primary colours when bracketed. I was wondering if the colours all differed by the same degree of brightness in each exposure or if the brightness would change individually.

Yello cable bracketed

Again I like the one half stop darker exposure as I think it defines the colours of the cable at that moment in time.

This exercise has taught me that I should also think about perhaps either bracketing an exposure so that I can compensate for difficult situations where the measurement of the exposure by the camera may cause a problem. It has also taught me to think about using over and under exposure to create a feeling within an image, by either using high key or low key exposures or slightly adjusting the exposure to create a slightly darker or lighter image .

Monday, 14 March 2011

Assignment 3 - Colour

What: The brief of this assignment was to show the command of colour in photography and produce a set of at least 16 images across four kinds of colour relationship with at least two examples of each kind.
Where: At various locations
When: Multiple days with varying lighting conditions.
How: First of all I had to read the text a couple of times to fully understand the brief of the Assignment. As I progressed through the assignment I made notes in my daybook in the style of a diary and included in the daybook some drawings and diagrams on some of the concepts that came to mind after reading the text. I will include these notes and concepts in this assignment paper.

I looked at the four kinds of colour relationship detailed in the assignment;
Complementary Colour – colours which face each other across the colour wheel
Similar Colour – colour which are near each other in the colour wheel
Contrasting colours - colours Spaced one Third of the way round the colour wheel
Colour Accent - a spot of accent or colour

At the start due to my mobility issues I decided that I would limit my choices to have no more than 2 controlled shots for each colour relationship. This meant that I would have to take my time and obtain at least 2 uncontrolled shots as well.

I then sat down and considered what kind of shots that I could take and whether they would be controlled or uncontrolled. I detailed what the colour relationship was and what the subject was, noting that I had to remember the ratios for colour within some of the compositions;
These ideas ranged from;
Similar Colours – Warm – A slice of blood orange – an indoor controlled shot
Colour Accent – lifebelt or harness against a painted wooden or stone background – outdoor uncontrolled
Colour Accent – Umbrellas in a crowd (one differently coloured from the rest) – outdoor uncontrolled.
Complementary Colour – red and green pain tubes spilling paint – indoor controlled
Complementary Colour – Violet and yellow using a scabbard and pommel of an antique sword – indoor controlled
Complementary Colour – using homemade gels on flashes to create artificial colours and light within a composition – indoor controlled.

I then started to shoot ideas as they came to me. I was driving home one day and noted the sunset. Although the colours were not quite right I hit on the idea of shooting either a sunset or a sunrise for complementary colour. I attempted quite a few of this composition but did not get the light or the composition correct and in the end I had to abandon the idea but, reused the composition for another image instead.
This happened on an large number of controlled and uncontrolled compositions and in the end I had to abandon the idea of limiting myself as it was hampering my completion the assignment.


Colour Harmony through complementary colours

1.Violet and yellow.

The first Image I proposed to use for this example was a colour 620nm infrared image of a graveyard. The Sky was a dark violet and the trees and grass were a pale yellow, but in the end I did not think this was a within the allowable parameters of the assignment so I did not submit it. I decided to use a piece of violet material and a yellow stitch ripper.

Nikon D80, focal length 55.0mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), aperture f5.6, speed 1/80 , ISO 3200, auto white balance, matrix metering, tripod mounted camera, No flash.

Colour Harmony - Complementary Colours - Violet Yellow II BORDER

The idea of the composition was to create tension in the composition by drawing the eye into the image by placing the stitch ripper at right angles to itself and to the grain of the material therefore making the eye move through the composition.

2. Green and Red

I wanted to use an idea I had at the start of the assignment, so I made two gels to cover some flashes, one green and the other red. I wanted to position the red one inside a room and the green one on the outside of the room and then shoot the colour relationship created when both flashes fired. I had a try at several compositions and placement of the flashes before I found that the idea just did not work and that the lights and gels did not perform as I expected. I just do not yet have the control and experience of their use. I most cases the green appeared to be very blue or the composition did not work.

Nikon D80, focal length 18mm (35mm equivalent 27mm), aperture f13.0, speed 1/160 second, ISO 400, -1 step on the exposure, auto white balance, matrix metering, tripod mounted camera, 2 off camera flashes.

Colour Harmony - complementary colours - Red Green BORDER

I finally hit on the idea of placing the flashes at different locations within the composition and recomposed the camera on the model laying on the floor as if she had fallen down the steps. I lit her with the red flash and placed the green flash to the right and slightly in front of the camera. Using these locations I obtained the 50/50 split in the light with the right colour and I had captured at least a form of the idea in my head.

3. Green and Pink

It was a few weeks later that I hit on the idea of using tints of red and green. I looked for a hue of green which was a lighter tint of green which was not too dark as I wanted to balance it against the pink. The idea was to show that the pale hue of red, in this case, the pink could be balanced in colour harmony by a pale green.

Nikon D80, focal length 32.0mm (35mm equivalent 48mm), aperture f20.0, speed 1/160 second, ISO 400, auto white balance, matrix metering, tripod mounted camera, On camera flash.

Colour Harmony - Complementary Colours - Green Pink BORDER

I am happy with this image as the pink does not look like an accent nor a spot and the small pink shape is balanced against the larger green hue of the material due to the diamond pattern breaking up the expanse of the green.

4. Red Violet, Yellow Green, Green and Yellow

While out walking I spotted this pot plant. I liked the splashes of colour and when I looked at it I could spot the colour relationship within the flower shape. I composed the camera close on the flowerpot and shot the image

Nikon D80, focal length 70.0mm (35mm equivalent 105mm), aperture f4.5, speed 1/500 second, ISO 3200, auto white balance, matrix metering, hand-held camera, No flash.

Colour Harmony - complementary colours - Split Complementary Red-Violet with Yellow and Green BORDER

I was happy with this image as not only did I have the straight colour harmony of the red-violet and the yellow-green, but I also had the split complementary of the colour either side of the yellow –green as well. I included this as I was happy to demonstrate the colour harmony of both the complementary and the split complementary as well.

Similar Colours

1.Blues - cool

While attempting to capture the complementary colours of a sunrise I had noted that the sunrise would produce a warm orange against the dark blue of a sky. Unfortunately I was unable to capture the image as I had wanted to I just could not obtain the correct hue of blue or orange. What I did notice to my surprise was that the blues and violets produced around a sunrise were very cold.

I waited for a clear morning where the sun was just above the horizon so that the final image was not too dark and it was not overridden by the yellow of the sun. I then captured a single shot of the colours produced by the foreground and the background to the sunrise.

Nikon D80, focal length 110.0mm (35mm equivalent 165mm), aperture f32, speed 1/60 second, ISO 640, auto white balance, matrix metering, hand-held camera, No flash

Colour Harmony - similar colours - cool - Blue violet versus Orange and yellow BORDER

I am very happy with this image as although it has a band of bright warm yellow in the middle of the composition, the cool range of blues of the foreground, background and sky within the composition makes for a cold cool image.


2.Orange and Red - warm

This was one of the first ideas that I had for similar colours as I had just bought a bag or oranges and found that all the oranges in the bag were blood oranges. I wanted to simply place a cut blood orange onto a white background and then using a soft box for light. I believed that I could place the orange slice at an angle which would show both the warm orange skin, the small curve of yellow beneath the skin and the warm deep red of the orange flesh.

Nikon D80, focal length 105.0mm (35mm equivalent 157mm), aperture f22, speed 1/160 second, ISO 400, auto white balance, matrix metering, hand-held camera, No flash but light from above with strong light from a desk lamp

Colour Harmony -  similar colours - warm - Orange Red BORDER

It took me a couple of attempts to get the right shape of slice and to position it correctly within the composition to get the right combination of colours and the right shape I was looking for. In the end I was very happy that the original idea had worked out and that the colours were exactly how I wanted them.

3.Blue and Violet – Cool

I had noted this idea down in my daybook as something to try out. The idea was to have the glass ornament arranged on top of sheet of glass which was raised at either end by some books. I then planned to zoom into the glass object and fire a flash pointed at the camera lens; the flash would be behind a piece of white cloth and the light would be dissipated slightly as it came through the scrim and then through the glass ornament. I amended the idea when I was feeling frustrated with controlling the amount of light and decided to go in a different direction.


I placed the glass ornament on top of a couple pieces of plain white paper and sat all this on top of a ring flash. I then set the flash to very low power and pointing the camera down on top of the ornament triggered the shutter and the flash.

Nikon D80, focal length 46mm (35mm equivalent 69mm), aperture f32, speed 1/125 second, ISO 125, auto white balance, matrix metering, hand-held camera, Remote triggered flash

Colour Harmony -  similar colours - cool - Violet and Blue BORDER

I had to do this a couple of times before I could set the exposure right so that the light did not penetrate too far through the paper and flood the outside of the ornament with light. In the end I was happy with the colours captured as the combination of light and colours within the ornament have come out as cool.

4.Orange and Red - Warm

I had taken this image originally to try and capture complementary colours but it did not work out right. However working with the image I noted that if I cropped it down to less than half of the original frame the image then became a collection of warm hues.

Nikon D50, focal length 220.0mm (35mm equivalent 330mm), aperture f40, speed 1/4 second, ISO 1600, portrait white balance, matrix metering, hand-held camera, No flash

Colour Harmony -similar  colours - Red Orange II BORDER

I am pleased with the warm colour produced in this image as in fact it was a bright red lamp and when the image was recomposed through cropping it became warm and a very nice composition.


Colour Contrast

1.Violet and Red

While attempting to capture the complementary colours of a sunset I had noted that the sunset would produce a warm red against the dark blue of a sky. Unfortunately I was unable to capture the image as I had wanted as I just could not obtain the correct hue of blue or red. It was while sitting looking at the sunset outside my windows that I noticed that the sky was beginning to darken and that the sunset was producing red and violet hues within the clouds.

I waited until the sun had moved below the horizon so that the lens was not filled with the yellow light from the sun and then I captured several images of the cloud colours.

Nikon D50, focal length 78.0mm (35mm equivalent 117mm), aperture f4.8, speed 1/60 second, ISO 800, sunlight white balance, matrix metering, hand-held camera, No flash

Colour Wheel -3rd spacing - Blue Red II BORDER

I am very happy with this image as it has a deep red violet hue in the middle of the violet and red which I think produces a warm set of contrasting colours.

2.Orange and Green

When I started to think about colour contrast I looked back at the colour wheel and examined the relationships of the primary and secondary colours and how I could use these relationships to create my colour contrast images.
One of the first ideas for this I had, was for an orange pepper. I noted that the green stalk on some peppers is quite pronounced and that with the correct orientation and composition I could use one for this example

I found that I had to find the right shape of pepper as some had more stalk than pepper and some stalks did not curve in a way that I wanted.

Nikon D80, focal length 105mm (35mm equivalent 157mm), aperture f45, speed 1/125 second, ISO 800, auto white balance, matrix metering, tripod mounted camera, No flash

Colour Wheel -3rd spacing - orange and green BORDER

I finally found this pepper and placed it on a high position in direct sunlight. I then focused closely in on the pepper and recomposed slightly until I had the stalk in the position that I wanted. I did not want any of the background to be seen and I wanted the round shape of the base of the stalk to be reflected in the curve of the pepper. I like the simplicity of the image and the colours are just as I wanted them to be.

3.Yellow and Red

I spotted this van parked in the street, and noticed that the logo and the stripes on the van were all red and yellow. I decided that I wanted a low vantage point on the side of the van and that I wanted the straight diagonal lines on the van to be positioned to intersect with the physical lines of the van.

Nikon D50, focal length 102mm (35mm equivalent 153mm), aperture f4.8, speed 1/150 second, ISO 800, auto white balance, matrix metering, hand held camera, No flash

Colour Wheel -3rd spacing - red and yellow BORDER

I liked the final composition as the red and yellow lines repeat across the frame and the physical lines of the van run across the frame. These lines intersect with the door lines which are dark and they help break up the frame into sections.

4.Yellow and Red

I walked through this scaffolding and I saw that the yellow lines repeated up the street on either side of the frame and across the top. This was reflected onto the pavement making the grey stone yellow tinted as well. I liked the small stripes of red and white tape on the yellow and I had decided at first to use this as an example of colour accent. When I framed up the composition through the viewfinder I decided that I wanted to use it for colour contrast. As it contained the yellow and the red, but importantly it contained a blue hue in the stone and in the sky and building at the end of the row of yellow scaffolding.

Nikon D80, focal length 62mm (35mm equivalent 93mm), aperture f11, speed 1/160 second, ISO 3200, auto white balance, matrix metering, hand held camera, No flash

Colour Accent - Spot or Accent -Yellow with red stripes BORDER

In the end I just like the simplicity of the image, the yellow striping up and across the screen and the blue rectangle at the end of the repetition.

Colour Accent

1.Blue Flag

While passing through a part of Edinburgh I saw that the sky was pale flat and white and against that there was a flagpole. I could see that the flagpole and the sky were almost the same hue of white and that the flag was a single point of colour against the sky.

I composed closely on the flag taking out the top of a building and positioning myself so that there were no buildings in the background and I shot at this angle so that only the only real colour in the frame would be the blue of the flag.

Nikon D50, focal length 240mm (35mm equivalent 360mm), aperture f18, speed 1/200 second, ISO 800, auto white balance, matrix metering, hand held camera, No flash

Colour Accent - Spot or Accent - Blue BORDER

I was pleased with the final outcome as the flagpole itself splits the frame vertically in the middle and the eye is drawn upwards to the limp flag hanging wrapped around the flagpole. I’m also pleased with the simple hue of the blue of the image as it could have been complicated if the sky was a different colour.

2.Red Square

I had spotted this architectural feature within a building a while back and I was just waiting for a time when I could use it. Every time I saw it my eye was drawn to the red box frame. I quickly positioned myself on a walkway facing the area, and framing in closely to avoid the edges and top supports of the strips, I shot a single frame of the feature.

Nikon 50, focal length 300mm (35mm equivalent 450mm), aperture f5.6, speed 1/100 second, ISO 800, auto white balance, matrix metering, hand held camera using wall and beanbag support, No flash

Colour Accent - Spot or Accent - Red box BORDER

I am pleased with this as, although it is designed to been looked through at from the opposite side to me and my camera, I managed to capture the colour of the box frame within the plain white framing of the vertical supports.

3.Orange spots on green

While I was sitting next to a tree waiting for the right moment of sunrise to shoot another image, I saw that the dew on the very tips of the shoots was beginning to coalesce and was shaping into droplets on the end of every shoot. As the sun rose I could see the yellow light was being reflected in the droplets. Hunching forwards I could see that from my position I had a background of green with these small yellow droplets spotted around. I framed up the composition and took the image quickly before the light dropped or the droplets were disturbed by the wind.

Nikon D80, focal length 122mm (35mm equivalent 183mm), aperture f4.8, speed 1/160 second, ISO 400, auto white balance, matrix metering, hand held camera, No flash

Colour Accent - spot or accent - Green and Orange BORDER

I am very happy with this as it was pure luck to be there at that particular moment in time and to see the accent of yellow against the green. It was just what I was looking for in this part of the assignment.

4.Red pillar box

I had seen a few years ago, that the Innocents Walkway ran through a tunnel underneath a building. When I had gone to see the tunnel at that time it was filled with primary and secondary coloured graffiti in the style of 1980s video arcade games. Remembering the graffiti, I went to see if it was still there, which it was not. It had all been washed off with the moisture that runs down the tunnel walls. While I was there I had the idea of using the curves of light which repeat down the tunnel as points of light for this assignment. However when I shot the image and examined it I was not happy with the final result and dropped the idea entirely. What I did see on my exit from the tunnel, looking back and upwards, was that there was a Victorian pillar box sitting behind the wall above the tunnel. Turning round and moving backwards and forwards I was able to get in a position where just the top of it was visible. I then composed on the pillar box making in just above point of centre within the frame. I wanted the wall to run across the frame and reflect the same dull brown grey colour of the branches behind the pillar box, this was helped by the flat grey light of the day and the dull white sky.

Nikon D50, focal length 240mm (35mm equivalent 360mm), aperture f5.6, speed 1/160 second, ISO 800, auto white balance, matrix metering, hand held camera, No flash

Colour Accent - Spot or Accent - Red BORDER

The red is a very dark hue and eye catching and it draws the eye away from the tangle of branches down on the wall and back into the pillar box.

Summary
I have found this assignment a bit of a challenge as the weather conditions were poor and this did not allow me to get outside very much. The light outside has been very dark and flat and I had difficulty finding the right objects that I could use to create compositions. This forced me into a position where I had to delay my assignment work and this was causing a lot of frustration for me as I could not experiment with different colours, subjects or composition techniques.
At the end of the assignment I have however started to re-examine the world around me for the colour relationships and I can now look at previous images and see why some appear to be better composed and eye catching than others. This part of the course has also reinforced the primary and secondary colours and their individual relationships as well as why some colours clash and why some colours are complementary, which is something I had not fully understood. The biggest part for me was relearning the colour wheel as I was used to the reflected light primaries rather than the pigment primaries.

Monday, 7 March 2011

Assignment 3 - Preparing to send off.

After a long slog and a bit of going back and forth over the work I have finally arrived at my 16 to submit.
Just preparing them before sending them off to Peak Imaging for printing.

Monday, 14 February 2011

Exercise 28

What: The main brief of this exercise was to examine how colours and tones and affected when colour filters are used when photographing a subject in black and white
Where: At home in one single shoot.
When: In the afternoon, in a darkened room to allow the use of a soft box to provide uniform lighting.
How: A number of photographs were taken of a still life which contained a red, a green and a yellow object, these were set on a blue background and in one corner of the still life a neutral grey card was placed.

From previous reading I knew that the colours would become tones of greyscale and that the filters would have some form of affect on the exposure in black and white, also from the reading I knew to expect that the neutral grey card would not change tone in any way when compared between the “filtered” exposures.

I expected at the start of this exercise that certain objects within the composition would have an enhanced tone in black and white when certain filters were used. E.g. before the exercise I expected that the red chilli in the composition would have a better contrast and tone range when the red filter is used.
I was very surprised with the results when examining the tonal ranges and what I expected at the start in some cases (i.e. the red filter) was wrong.


Original Colour Shot

I included this colour shot as the starting reference point before I used Photoshop to convert the images to black and white and then applied the presets for each of the colour filters.

D80,Aperture f/29, Shutter Speed 1/160 sec, ISO 1000, 50mm (35mm equivalent 75mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Flash White Balance, Tripod Mounted, 18-70mm lens, Softbox flash mounted to the right and above of the camera.

Colour DSC_0022


Default Black and White

This is the same shot converted to black and white using the default preset filter within Photoshop, as expected the objects have been stripped of their colour and have been rendered in tones of black and white. As a starting point I quite like the range of tones of each object, no on object has a greater tonal range than the rest and all the detail can be clearly seen on the objects.

D80,Aperture f/29, Shutter Speed 1/160 sec, ISO 1000, 50mm (35mm equivalent 75mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Flash White Balance, Tripod Mounted, 18-70mm lens, Softbox flash mounted to the right and above of the camera.

bandw-defaultDSC_0022


Red Filter

When starting this exercise I had expected that the red chilli would have a deepened colour range and would have been a darker grey than the default preset. However when I applied the preset of the red filter, I was very surprised to see that the red chilli became almost white and pale and it did not differ in tone from the yellow banana. However some of the shadow and detailed ridges on the red chilli and the green pepper became more defined as they had better tone. The green pepper itself gained a little in tonal range and some of the detail on the pepper was better defined than other parts. I was surprised to find that the blue background darkened as much as it did.

D80,Aperture f/29, Shutter Speed 1/160 sec, ISO 1000, 50mm (35mm equivalent 75mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Flash White Balance, Tripod Mounted, 18-70mm lens, Softbox flash mounted to the right and above of the camera.

bandw-redfilterDSC_0022

As surprised as I was, I learned a lot from this as it quickly changed my perception of the filters and how they worked when used in black and white.

Yellow Filter

Again I returned to the colour version and then using Photoshop I chose the Black and White conversion with the preset of a yellow filter. As with the red filter I found that the red chilli became very pale although it did gain a wide tonal range and the shadows and ridges on the chilli were well defined with this tonal range. This filter also brought out some of the finer detail in the green pepper but it was not as wide or as deep a tonal range as with the red filter.
In comparing the two I can see that the green pepper looses a little in the tonal range and definition and the red chilli gains some. The yellow banana was unchanged between these two filters and remained mainly white with some shadow and little detail, it was not as detailed nor did it have a wide tonal range as it did in the default settings.

D80,Aperture f/29, Shutter Speed 1/160 sec, ISO 1000, 50mm (35mm equivalent 75mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Flash White Balance, Tripod Mounted, 18-70mm lens, Softbox flash mounted to the right and above of the camera.

bandw-yellowfilterDSC_0022

Green Filter

Again returning to the colour version using Photoshop I chose the Black and White conversion with the preset of a green filter; straight away I could see a difference in this filter as compared to the red and yellow filters. The red chilli moved into the middle of the full tonal range and became grey and very detailed it had both quite bright whites and dark greys. I could see comparing it to the default setting that this was quite close to the default for the red chilli, but the green pepper, the yellow banana and the blur background differed. The green pepper was a slightly paler grey and lighter in tone and it lost some of the finer detail on the surface, this loss of surface detail could also be seen on the yellow banana, there is little surface detail to be seen compared to the default and due to its limited tonal range it loses almost all of its shadow and definition as it is much brighter, it does gain a little tone compared to the red and green filters. The blue background lightened slightly compared to the red and yellow filters and the detail of the cloth became clearer through higher grain, comparing the backgrounds between the green filter and the default I can see that the background has darkened slightly in tone.


D80,Aperture f/29, Shutter Speed 1/160 sec, ISO 1000, 50mm (35mm equivalent 75mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Flash White Balance, Tripod Mounted, 18-70mm lens, Softbox flash mounted to the right and above of the camera.

bandw-greenfilterDSC_0022


Blue Filter

I repeated the same process again, choosing this time the blue preset filter in Photoshop. Straight away I could see the difference in this filter; both the green pepper and the red chilli became darker in tone and gained a wider tonal range. The contrast between the dark and white is surprising and very impressive to me. The tonal values on the red chilli and the green pepper were increased in range, both of the objects darkening and having a very wide tonal range, very dark blacks and very bright whites. Even the yellow banana darkened and the tonal range that it has shows up a lot of detail on the surface and comparing it to all the other black and white preset filters it appears to just have lost its yellow hue, the saturation and the brightness of the colour image have not been lost at all. I could see a lot of detail on all the objects that I could not see even on the colour version.

D80,Aperture f/29, Shutter Speed 1/160 sec, ISO 1000, 50mm (35mm equivalent 75mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Flash White Balance, Tripod Mounted, 18-70mm lens, Softbox flash mounted to the right and above of the camera.

bandw-bluefilterDSC_0022

In all of the black and white presets I could see one common object which did not change and that was the neutral grey card. It remained the same tonal value in all of the shots; the neutral grey I think must therefore be unaffected by the filters and is therefore truly “neutral”.

I am drawn to the green and the blue filters as they both appeal to me as they have a great deal of detail in their tone (although the blue background lost a little of its detail. Both the images from these filters remind me of the images of peppers by Edward Weston; his images of pepper and chillies is unsurpassed in their tonal values and I can now see how he may have achieved some of the detail and tone in these images.

I have learned a lot about the “conversion” of colour into tones in this exercise. Some of my preconceived ideas were shown to be wrong and these ideas have been corrected through this exercise, I am pleased to have learned a lot about black and white and how colour filters have an effect on the tonal range of an image. I have also learned that there is a neutral grey which is unaffected by these filters and that it remains the same no matter what.

Saturday, 5 February 2011

Exercise 27

What: The main brief of this exercise was to examine colour relationship and first of all photograph the colour relationship of red/green, blue/orange and violet/yellow in the proportion listed in the text which were taken from Goethe’s theory of colour and the colour relationship taken from the intensity of each colour in relationship to the other primary and secondary colours. The second part of the exercise was to take a freer hand and photograph the colour relationships but not in the forced relationship showing that there is no real correct formula for complementary colours.
Where: In different locations, in all weather including a gale.
When: Various times, sometime with natural light and at other times utilising whatever light source was available.
How: First of all I had to find the right combinations of complementary colours in the correct ratios. Then for the second part take photographs were the colour relationship in complementary colours did not adhere to the combinations and also to take photographs were there may be more than two colours. Again like the previous exercise I found this exercise quite frustrating as repeatedly I would come up with an idea, which I would photography only to find that combination was not correct or that the colour saturations did not appear as I wanted. Also being restricted by movement and by the weather meant that I lacked the colourful surroundings where I could obtain the correct combinations.

What I first of all learnt that getting the right combinations was quite hard but in the end I was spotting them everywhere, I also started to spot combinations of colours which were not complementary but their clash of colours caught my eye.

As I captured each set of images I uploaded the images from the camera and did a straight conversion of the RAW image into a JPEG without changing any of the settings from the camera.

Complementary colours in their ratios

Red/Green

I expected this shot to come out fairly quickly as I was surrounded by the colour red and I thought that I would easy find the combination of red and green together. In time however I found that many of the ideas that I came up with (fruit and vegetables, cars, doors, signs, LEDS, etc) either did not have the exact hue or the right combination. I took a vast number of shots using differing lenses distances and composition ideas before I finally chose the combination of the red and green perfume bottles. I spotted them in a shot and although I had to replicate the same combination at home I was happy with the photograph

D80,Aperture f/3.8, Shutter Speed 1/60 sec, ISO 1600, 105mm (35mm equivalent 157mm), Pattern Metering Mode, FlashWhite Balance, Tripod Mounted, 105mm lens, on board flash

red-green

I feel that this exposure has left the correct hues and that the red and green are balanced together in the 1:1 ratio. I was pleased that the two items sat together closely allowing me to zoom right into the objects. I also liked the composition as the eye is drawn in down through the curves and also into the centre from the sides of the frame.
I also liked this second red/green combination that I photographed where I closely focused into a pair of led indicators on a piece of computer network equipment. I have decided to include this as it ran a close second and I liked the contrast between the very dark background and the isolated spots of colour.

D80,Aperture f/5.3 , Shutter Speed 1/200 sec, ISO 1600, 105mm (35mm equivalent 157mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand held, 105mm lens.

red-green2

Blue/Orange

I found in my surroundings that I had a lot of blues combined with other colours but not with orange. I photographed a number of sunsets where the sky was blue but the light was a deep red, a washed out yellow/orange or a washed out pink/red none of which was suitable.
It was while I was walking back over some rough ground that I spotted the orange lights reflected in some pools of water, on closer inspection I found that the tide was out in a small bay and this allowed me to walk right up to the edge of the water and while standing quite high look down into the water and capture the long fingers of orange light reflected over the blue water.

D50,Aperture f/4.5 , Shutter Speed 1/60 sec, ISO 1600, 70mm (35mm equivalent 105mm), Pattern Metering Mode, Manual White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70mm lens.

Blue Orange

I was very happy with the final image as this allowed for the 2:1 ratio for the colours and I liked the repetitive nature of the waves and the ripples of light as they flow down the frame.

Violet/Yellow

This was one of the hardest to capture as at the dead of winter there were not many violet and yellow flowers about, which is the idea that I had originally. I played around with a few ideas consisting of car lights and reflected colours but the ideas just did not pan out and I was not happy with the results. It was while watching a colleague talk that I noticed that he had a number of brightly coloured balls and I managed to persuade him to set up a couple so that I could take a few shots. I am not entirely happy with the final image but I was aware that the lens that I was using was extremely slow to focus and that the lighting was very poor so that I had use the lens at a very open aperture to capture all the available light.

D80,Aperture f/3.5, Shutter Speed 1/10 sec, ISO 1000, 105mm (35mm equivalent 157mm), Centre Weight Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held supported on a bean bag, 105mm macro lens.

Violet Yellow

I was surprised to see that although the yellow ball was further back and in a smaller ratio it still appeared to be quite large and to my eyes it makes the yellow ball appear to be larger in size than the violet ball.

I found this part of the exercise quite hard as some of the colour combinations and ratios were quite hard to find and some were almost impossible to capture at this time of the year


Complementary Colours not in their ratios or combinations

This part of the exercise was much more enjoyable, mainly because that I had found that I was spotting colour combinations a lot easier and that it was less restrictive and this allowed me a freer licence to use the combinations that appealed to me.

Green/Yellow

One of the colour combinations that I see a lot of and which appeals to me is the combination of yellow and green commonly seen here in the gorse bush. I liked the fact that the green is almost a background colour and the yellow is bright and almost separate from the rest of the bush. Even late in the day the yellow attracts my eye and the green which dominates the bush is pushed into the background.


D80,Aperture f/1.8 , Shutter Speed 1/100 sec, ISO 1000, 50mm (35mm equivalent 75mm), Matrix Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 50mm lens.

Green Yellow

There is something about the yellow in the image that makes me happy and although it is a brighter and more intense colour that the green of the image, the imbalance where the yellow dominates the image although it is of a smaller ratio to the green. I feel that this imbalance works for the yellow and against the green.

Blue/Yellow

I spotted this image out the corner of my eye and I played with a few different compositions and framing before deciding on this one. I liked the reflection of the yellow on the blue and the intenseness of the blue against the yellow. The blue to yellow ratio is about 2:1 and I feel that this works for the blue as it makes it dominate the image and it drives the yellow back into the frame. The eye is drawn to the blue and to the reflections and away from the yellow.

D50,Aperture f/4.5, Shutter Speed 1/5 sec, ISO 1600, 50mm (35mm equivalent 75mm), Matrix Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 50mm lens.

Blue Yellow


Looking at the image, there is almost a red tint to the image that was not there when I took the picture, I think that it may have come from the greyish wall which was behind the yellow grit bucket and must have been reflected in the car.

Blue/Orange

I like the fact that the blues in their varying hues outnumber the orange, but because the orange is so bright and isolated against the blue it allows the orange to standout within the frame. If you take away the blue grey of the sea and the white blue of the sky then the orange ration is higher than the blue of the boats hull.
I liked the repetitive movement of the waves and the fact that the orange bridge on the boat is high in the frame and slightly off centre. Certainly studying the image as a small thumbnail the orange is more eye-catching that the blues.

D50,Aperture f/6.3, Shutter Speed 1/30 sec, ISO 1600, 44mm (35mm equivalent 66mm), Matrix Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held (in a gale) , 18-70mm lens.

blue orange 2

Red/Green

I had seen this unusual coloured sign earlier on in the day and I went back to photograph it as the ratios of the image are almost but not quite 1:1. I feel that the imbalance in the rations makes the red less intense and allows the green to dominate within the frame.

It was an unusual choice to paint a sign in such a pair of complimentary colours as I would have through that they wanted the sign to stand out more rather than to be as “normal” as this.

D50,Aperture f/4.5, Shutter Speed 1/40 sec, ISO 1600, 55mm (35mm equivalent 82mm), Matrix Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70mm lens.

red green 3

Looking at this I feel that the red is lost amongst the green.


Blue/red/Yellow/Green

I was very happy to see this combination of colours in this ratio as it somehow allows the colours to flow down in size and intensity to the point where the green is almost not seen even though it is almost the same size and ratio as the yellow.

The blue dominates the frame, but I feel that my eye is drawn away from it to the red where my eye then slides down to the yellow and the green. I feel that the red because of its’ intensity is the main focal point of the image and the ratio of 4:2:1:1 somehow works against the blue.

D50,Aperture f/4.5, Shutter Speed 1/25 sec, ISO 1600, 29mm (35mm equivalent 43mm), Matrix Metering Mode, Auto White Balance, Hand Held, 18-70mm lens.

blue red yellow green

I found this exercise quite frustrating at the start but after a while I did find that I was beginning to examine my surroundings constantly for combinations of colours and seeing whether they were complimentary colours or not. I am beginning to understand why some images appeal to me while others do not, and the use of colours to create certain effects within a frame and composition.